| looking at getting a skid loader and tree shear to start cutting ceders. any suggestions on prefered models or size of skid loader... is bigger always better... how about shear would 12" be enough or should i go with 16" any tricks to doing a good job thanks |
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| I have an 1845C Case and a saw, my saw is a Hicks built made locally. I have heard pros and cons of both saws and shears. I have also run a 40XT case with a shear, I don't know who manufactured the shear but I do believe it was around a 12" job and worked very well clearing hedge sprouts and cedars. One advantage to the saw is that it has an arm that sets the cutting edge further out from the machine making it much easier to get in and cut cedars. Also a guy can grind the stump off right at ground level. The 1845C was the large Case machine, in today's market it's a mid size and I believe the 40XT is slightly smaller than the 1845. |
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Sandy Hook, MB | Hello Dakotafarmer What are your plans for the trees after you cut them down? |
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| Also if you go with a shear make sure it has the swivel that allows for cuttting vertically, very nice for clearing fence rows. |
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East central Indiana | Go with a saw you'll be much happier. |
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Casey IL. ( I -70 ) then south on rt.49 | I have just biught a tree trimer with a swivel, set out about 6' in front of the skid steer. I have a 60xt case. It is suposed to cut up to 12" trees and limbs. Plan on cutting ceders down. Haveing a big problem with them coming up every where. Have been trying to spray them but that does not work very good. |
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NW Illinois | Please tell us what and where you bought it. I've been looking myself for one. Thanks, tc |
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| Absolutely true on the saw. The shear works great in the beginning but then starts to leave splinters after a while. Those can be nasty on tires too. We have a Montezuma saw. The blade is farther out from the cab so it's easier to see. Also the blade spins slower so as not to throw rocks around. |
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Casey IL. ( I -70 ) then south on rt.49 | Please tell us what and where you bought it. I've been looking myself for one. Thanks, tc The tree trimmer or tree shear. They also sell many other attachments for skid steers. Buening Equ. Effingham IL. PH. 217- eight44- 2040 Ask for Dale real nice guy. you can let him no that I sent you if you want. Tim Hickox |
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| Just planning on stacking with a loader into piles and burning at later date. Have never seen the saw work can u cut at ground level like u can with shear and sounds like more maintence than shear ... any thoughts |
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| You can easily cut at or even below ground level. Half the time I can't even see where I cut them off. They have an option to mount a tank on the saw so you can spray them as you cut but I don't have that hooked up yet. The biggest drawback to me is that in order to change the teeth, they have to be cut off and new bronzed on. I think the Turbo Saw has replaceable teeth, but for the price of the Montezuma you could purchase at least three new blades and not mess with the teeth. However, the dealer said he hasn't had to replace any blades or teeth on the saws he sold. Got mine from Stillwell Skid Steer Sales. Last I knew he had a video of the saw working. www.stillwellsales.com |
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SE Neb | When you are looking at cutters I would sure think about what kind of soil you are working with, like does it have rocks? What size of trees big, small straight, or gnarly. Around here the leading favorites are Dymax, Marshall saw and Turbo saw. If you have rocks a hyd driven saw like a Turbo saw is a wreck waiting to happen. If you don't break out windows you will get plenty tired of putting in new teeth. Plus to make a Hyd saw to really sing you need Hi-Flow hyd on the skid steer. On the other hand if you have few rocks and trees less than 8 ft or so it will cut trees like a wild man and you will be really amazed how fast it is. The Dymax is a great unit but it has a couple short commings like if you are cutting large cedars you have to rake your way in by mopping off the limbs by driving up and lowering the cutter down to shear them off so you can get in to the trunk. Also if you are cutting large gnarly trees it will really challenge you to get ahold of the trunk in a good way to get it to cut it off. It does allow you to be able to grab the trees and pick them up and in 8-12" hardwood trees it does a nice job. The Marshall saw isn't really a saw but rather it has a circular blade that rotates with a pair of cylinders to pull the blade through the tree. It rotates and as it does it pulls the tree closer to a set of teeth that hold the tree as the blade is drawn through it. I'm sure that is (as clear as mudd) sorry but I am not very good at describing things sometimes. The one big up/down is the fact that it sets 5-7 ft ahead of you. It's great for reach but it really challenges a smaller machine to handle it. I have neighbors that have one of all the above and each likes how they work but they are aware of the differences in each one and operate them accordingly. Hope this helps. |
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south central IOWA | If you just doing cedar trees I think one of these would probably be the cats meow. I'm not sure how well it would work with other types of tress like hedge but would imagine it would handle them. They are made by a local guy here and the one I seen was made heavy duty that's for sure. Not sure on the price but I'm thinking around 3 or 3500. It's not your normal shear. It has no hydraulics. Just V shaped stationary blades. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6kypStGhhs Edited by play in the dirt 3/17/2013 21:10 |
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